Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei) is the image on nearly every Moldovan postcard: a long limestone ridge wrapped in a tight loop of the Răut river, about 60 km north-east of Chișinău. Monks carved a cave monastery into the cliff, a white church crowns the ridge, and the villages of Butuceni and Trebujeni lie in the valley below.
People have lived here for thousands of years. Archaeologists have found traces of Geto-Dacian fortifications, a 14th-century Golden Horde town and a medieval Moldavian citadel. For visitors heading to Gagauzia, it is the natural counterpart — the green, hilly north to set against the open southern steppe.
Top things to do: Orheiul Vechi
Cave monastery
A low doorway beneath the bell tower leads down into a chapel cut into the rock, with monks’ cells and a ledge opening onto a dizzying view of the river. It is an active place of worship: cover shoulders and knees.
Walk the ridge
A path runs along the crest from the bell tower to the hilltop church, with views over both arms of the river loop. Allow an hour at an easy pace.
Butuceni village
Traditional houses with blue-painted porches line the single street. Several have become guesthouses and restaurants serving plăcinte, zeamă and house wine.
Museum and archaeological remains
A small exhibition near the entrance explains the site; outside are the excavated remains of baths and other buildings from the Golden Horde period.
Add Curchi Monastery
Many tours pair Orheiul Vechi with Curchi, a handsome monastery complex in the forest about half an hour away.
How to get to Orheiul Vechi
- Infrequent minibuses run from Chișinău’s Central Bus Station to Butuceni and Trebujeni, taking about an hour to an hour and a half; return times are limited.
- Most visitors come on a guided day trip, often combined with Curchi Monastery and the Cricova cellars.
Insider tips
- Wear proper shoes — the ridge paths are stony and slippery after rain.
- There is little shade on the ridge; bring water and sun protection in summer.
- Lunch in a Butuceni guesthouse is a highlight; book ahead at weekends.
Tours & day trips: Orheiul Vechi
These bookable day trips are the easiest way to see Orheiul Vechi and the area around it — check each itinerary for the exact stops:
Day trip from €90 Curchi Monastery, Old Orhei and Cricova Winery (Optional)
Moldova’s three headline sights in a single day: the cave monastery and river bend of Orheiul Vechi, Curchi Monastery and — as an optional extra — the underground wine city of Cricova. The best-reviewed Moldova day trip on this list.
- Orheiul Vechi cave monastery and ridge
- Curchi Monastery
- Optional Cricova cellars with tasting
Day trip from €85 Curchi Monastery and Old Orhei with Optional Cricova Winery
A guided full-day tour of Moldova’s best-known landmarks — Curchi Monastery and Orheiul Vechi — combining history, culture and, if you add Cricova, wine. Slightly shorter and cheaper than its closest rival.
- Curchi Monastery
- Orheiul Vechi
- Optional Cricova winery visit
Day trip from €135 From Chișinău: Old Orhei Complex and Cricova Wine Tasting
One day, two essentials: the Underground City of Cricova, one of Moldova’s most visited wineries, with a tasting, and the Old Orhei archaeological complex.
- Cricova underground wine city
- Wine tasting
- Old Orhei archaeological complex
Day trip from €116 Old Orhei & Curchi Monastery: Brănești Wine Tasting Experience
A journey through Moldova’s medieval past from Chișinău: the Old Orhei complex, Curchi Monastery and a tasting at the Brănești winery.
- Old Orhei archaeological and cultural complex
- Curchi Monastery
- Tasting at the Brănești cellars
